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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 3, 2013 20:22:44 GMT
Leading on from Ghostwalker's example I planned out a potential 2500 point army list for these guys. It's by no means definitive and I won't be buying this as an actual list but it's just an idea of what I can get for the points.
So here we go!
Lord
Saurus Oldblood on Carnosaur with Loping Stride, spear and shield - 378
Hero
Tetto'eko - 185
Tiktaq'to - 170
Level 2 Skink Priest with Dispel scroll - 125
Core
20 Saurus Warriors with Leader, Musician and Standard - 250
20 Saurus Warriors with Leader, Musician and Standard - 250
24 Skink Cohort with Brave, Musician and Standard - 150
Special
5 Terradon Riders with Leader - 185
Stegadon with Unstoppable Stampede - 225
16 Cold One Riders with spears, Leader, Musician and Standard - 574
Total 2492
90 Models (inc. 2 monsters)
Mostly made from 2 battalion boxes and some extras. This means that I'll also have a block of 20 Temple Guard to protect a Slann Mage-Priest I'll get eventually. Only other things I will have to get is the new Bastiladons and another Carnosaur box to be a Troglodon.
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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 9, 2013 14:38:47 GMT
I've started on the first temple for the Lizardmen. It won't be the dice tower I was talking about but still pretty large. I've dubbed it the Lesser Temple of Tlaxtlan (as that's where Tetto'eko is from)  This is the floor plan, although imagine another layer underneath for the base as I ran out of foam board. The bottom layer will be 30cm x 25cm, the first layer is 25cm x 20cm, 2nd is 20cm x 15cm and the top is 15cm x 10cm. Each will be separated by 2.5cm...  Like so. Need to trim the supports a bit so they fit flush and then figure out how to glue them, currently thinking PVA but not sure it'll be solid enough. |
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Post by Harkon Greywolf on Nov 9, 2013 15:18:08 GMT
PVA isn't brilliant as it may never quite set between the layers. Didn't Zog suggest No More Nails?
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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 9, 2013 15:30:46 GMT
Yeah that will make more sense. Be like cement.
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Post by sw1 on Nov 9, 2013 21:42:28 GMT
Putting that together you want to use a hot glue gun. Anything else has a setting time which will mean slippage. You can always slap a layer of something over the top to make it hard. Also reinforce with triangles to keep the shape,say 2 or 3 on each side.
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Post by Stretch on Nov 9, 2013 22:13:50 GMT
Did someone say hot glue?..............
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Post by Harkon Greywolf on Nov 9, 2013 23:38:05 GMT
Did someone say hot glue?.............. LOL  |
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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 10, 2013 8:15:11 GMT
Well thinking of pinning the walls as well, that'll certainly help
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Post by sw1 on Nov 10, 2013 23:21:36 GMT
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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 11, 2013 9:25:04 GMT
That looks pretty funky! How are you going to paint it then? That'll be the next this with this temple. I'll probably go with a textured paint (home made over bought) to get it "stone like", just don't know the colours... Haven't had the need to paint much stone and when I do it tends to look a bit lame...
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Post by ZOG! on Nov 11, 2013 9:40:41 GMT
Pins will add strength , hot glue is a bit of a pain. Mostly instant but a pain (especially if you get any on ya...ow!)
No more nails is just as strong though takes some time to dry, to have an instant stick and strength.
On the LOTR boards with hills we used double sided tape for the instant stick around the edges, but used pva in the middle for strength.
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Post by sw1 on Nov 12, 2013 8:27:49 GMT
Hot glue is safe and doesn't hurt as long as your space is organised and you don't overload the joints initially. Putting too much on gets everywhere and causes burning issues. You just need a thin line along the long edge to tack it into the right position. You can then invert the stuff and put a proper run of glue on the underside. This means you have very little to clean up on the outside and it makes the joint fairly strong.
Nothing wrong with pinning as well though if you're using hot glue it might be a bit overkill.
For the models you're doing I'd go with a sand stone brown/bone look. I think with stone work a high contrast drybrush works better than working up through several colours. I'm considering getting some Matt emulsion mixed up for the base coat (which I'll mix sand or sawdust into for texture) and tester pots for the highlight drybrushing.
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Post by sw1 on Nov 12, 2013 8:29:15 GMT
You might also want to add detail on with card or thick paper before doing the textured paint layer.
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Post by Lord Draconiroth on Nov 12, 2013 9:39:21 GMT
You might also want to add detail on with card or thick paper before doing the textured paint layer. Good point, give the stone a carved look. Don't think that'll be needed on the main temple steps though... Maybe the top layer and what I might put on the top. |
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The Irontooth
Bloodclaw
Tale of Gamers: 3 units, 4 pieces of terrain
Posts: 387
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Post by The Irontooth on Nov 12, 2013 12:45:31 GMT
Instead of foam board I would advise using isolation foam (sometimes called pink foam, though can be yellow as well).
Foam board is great for walls. But for rocks, stones, hills, boulders, and things like your temple pink foam is the better choice I think. You can easily cut small gaps in the foam so it looks like they are individual stones.
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