When to use milliput over gs or mix them?

[sw1]

Just wondering if there's certain applications where gs or milliput is better to use. Or even if you are better off mixing the 2 of them?

I've just purely used gs up to now for things like adding missing texture say fur on wolves or feathers on a cyber-raven.

I'll soon be trying to fix up some knackered tanks and I think milliput is meant to be better for where I'll need to sand stuff flat. Not sure if that's right or I'm better off using a mix?

So any advice or guidance anyone can give would be very handy. I've got a small packet of superfine white milliput to play with and plenty of green stuff in the freezer waiting to be used.

[badfang]

Milliput seems to give more of 'ceramic' finish whilst GS is more 'plasticky' so for small thin bits I think GS would be more survivable than Milliput which would just crack or shatter. I suspect Milliput would be better for filing or sanding and it's ideal for orky stuff because it's fairly easy to 'tear' the surface for that corroded look. Milliput also seems to take fabric details well, I got a cheap pair of sunglasses once for the fine weave bag that they came in, spreading the milliput very thin and then rolling the fabric over the top of it gave an excellent fabric look to a greatcoat I did on my tankbusta nob. Sadly I came up with this brilliant idea of making paint from a pinkish MIG pigment which looked fine right up to the point when I sprayed it with purity seal and it all went a 'orrible shade of brahn, which needed completely repainting - which lost the texture.
Can't say that I've ever tried mixing them although I think I have heard of others doing so - just can't remember where or why.

[pete]

That might have been me. I used to mix the two because I couldn't get on with the bubblegum texture of greenstuff when doing large smooth areas. If you mix the two together then you end up with some of the rigidity of greenstuff and the clayeness of miliput. It's not a bad compromise as when it cures you can file it much easier than trying to sand GS on its own. When you're working it you can slip it because of the miliput which helps to smooth things out.

These days I tend to use Miliput for bulking out armatures cause it's so hard it means that the overlying layers can't go anywhere. Also it's very good for making swords and such cause it is much easier to file and sand to shape.

Greenstuff is currently out of favour with me for most things. I find that it's too restrictive for most of the stuff I do due to the fact that it self cures. I do use it when there's no real alternative for things like mending plastic or resin or for really fine details like belt buckles etc.

My putty of choice is Sculpey. It feels like clay and can go almost as fine as greenstuff, but it lacks the resistance that you get with GS. For organic shapes including clothes and stuff it's really good and as fast or as slow as you want it to be. It's no good for use on plastic or resin though unless you want to have a fire and it probably wouldn't stick to metal, not for long anyway.

[badfang]

Jun 26, 2014 10:46:12 GMT sw1 said:

I'll soon be trying to fix up some knackered tanks and I think milliput is meant to be better for where I'll need to sand stuff flat. Not sure if that's right or I'm better off using a mix?

I missed that bit in your original post, when I built up Bentaprize there were quite a few places where the stompa hull didn't fit properly (well, not the way I thought it ought to ) so I had to 'repair' that as best I could





Possibly not the best illustrations but Milliput does work quite well for things like that.

I think it may have been you who posted links on the old board to some 'paperhammer' templates? The Waaaghs got a bit of a Meks challenge going on so I decided to give one of someone else's templates a go





If you can find some tank templates, with Milliput you can go a bit beyond repairing them 

[sw1]

Cheers for the info. Your ship was one of the models that made me want to try out milliput as it looked really good 'in the flesh'.

The paper hammer files will need to be pulled out so I can try them out again.

[badfang]

Jun 28, 2014 6:48:48 GMT sw1 said:

The paper hammer files will need to be pulled out so I can try them out again.

The initial results are looking quite promising



bearing in mind these are orky versions so deliberately scrappy 

[sw1]

Ooooo ... How rigid are they?

[badfang]

Well, I wouldn't want to stand on them but I'm expecting the build to be something in the order of two or three kilo's (and won't be too surprised if it's more) and they should be sturdy enough to stand that.

[Manus]

NOw that's an interesting approach, would never have thought of that

[badfang]

So, having shown where I'd use Milliput - on the feet, which have growed a bit





it's probably only fair to show where I use Green Stuff



This is the centre section which will house the transport bay and will have to support the 795 gram 'GlowyRox Reakta' at the back as well as holding the entire build together so I'm using the GS as filler/glue/reinforcement. This is only stage 1 but I'm hoping that the extra resilience of the GS will put up with a bit of flexing in the sort of situation where I suspect Milliput might crack and that the stage 2 reinforcement will provide adequate additional strength for a bit more than normal wear and tear.

[Max_Dammit]

Intresting thread =D

[badfang]

Cheers Max, it's taken a while to get the thing mounted up proppa



although the head's been cut up and re-worked a bit today so it don't quite look like that any more 



and, to give some idea of scale, my beefed up bossmek is about 4¹/₂" (115mm) from the floor to the top of his KFF. At the moment the body is supported on the hips by the Milliput 'plated' tinplate triangular strengtheners which are locked down by one bit of brazing rod across the front and two more across the back, there will eventually be some vertical ones added to stop it coming apart sideways. Just have to sort the head out now then on to the arms.

[paladin7221]

Good Lord, this is going to be brilliant!

[Brassaxe]

Sorry it didn't get brillianter sooner - it staggers on



It's not too bad for height but



can't help feeling 14" long is a bit corblimey